Fall into Winter Facts
Roses:
Stop watering your roses in early September. Do not remove any blossoms and allow them to go to seed (rose hips). If you have tender rose (grafted) varieties, mulch them 12-15 inches with compost or other mulching materials after your ground freezes. This may not be until November so be patient. Do not cut back your roses until spring. I know, everyone else tells you to cut them back now, but they will do better if you wait. Spraying with an anti-transpirant spray ( Wilt Stop) helps prevent the canes from dehydrating over the winter. You can spray them in November and if feasible again in mid January. Following these steps will greatly increase the likelihood of your roses winter survival.
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Trees and Shrubs:
Begin to limit your watering on deciduous trees and shrubs beginning in late August. Doing so will help prepare them for the coming cold of winter and brings about better fall color display. Continue watering evergreen trees and shrubs as long as you are able to ensure moisture for the winter months. Tender plants (especially evergreens) can benefit from a spraying of an anti-transpirant ( Wilt Stop) in early November . Just before your ground freezes up for the winter, give everything a heavy drink of water. Make sure you protect young tree trunks from Winter Burn by putting on Tree Guards in October. Tree Guards are also a must if you live in an area with Deer to prevent antler rub damage.
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Annuals and Perennials:
Continue watering your annuals and perennials until frost begins to take its toll on them. Many plants will withstand several frosts, but only if they have been adequately watered. Dry plants succumb to frost much more easily than well-watered plants. If you have perennials planted for fall color (asters, mums etc.) be sure to continue watering them for the best display of color. Once your plants have withered from the cold, you may clean up your beds by removing the annuals and cutting back your perennials.
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Lawn Care:
Fertilize your turf areas once in September and again in October. To avoid problems with your trees and shrubs going dormant, it is recommended you use a natural slow release fertilizer instead of a synthetic fertilizer. Milorganite is an excellent fall fertilizer. As the days cool, your lawn’s water needs will lessen. Reduce watering subject to the weather. Proper lawn height going into winter is about two inches. ..More
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Storing Dahlia Tubers For The Winter:
At the end of the growing season, tuber-grown dahlias should be dug and stored for the winter in a frost-free place. Immediately after the first frost and after leaves have blackened, cut the stem back to about six inches above the ground. Then use a garden fork to loosen the soil around the tuber and lift out of the soil. Remove surplus soil from the tuber.
Place the tubers upside down in a dry airy space for about two weeks. This allows moisture to drain out of stems. The tubers need to be completely dry before they are stored for the winter. Next, store the tubers in trays of dry vermiculite, perlite or peat moss in a cool, dry cellar or storage area at about 40° to 45° degrees Fahrenheit. Never store at a much higher temperature, as dahlia tubers will dry out and shrivel rapidly.
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Storing Begonia Tubers:
Tuberous begonias will enter a dormant period no matter how they are grown, whether in a greenhouse or outdoors, so they are not suitable as year-round houseplants. (Some others, such as Rieger begonias, are a better choice as indoor flowering plants.) During the dormant period, begonia tubers must be stored indoors. Left in the ground during a Montana winter, they would be killed.
To prepare the tubers for dormancy, gradually reduce watering and stop fertilizing at the end of August. Some gardeners may choose to remove any flower buds that form in September to encourage dormancy and the storing of energy in tuber.
Dig begonia tubers when the foliage starts to yellow, or after the first killing frost. Cut the stems to about five inches, and allow tubers to cure (dry) indoors at room temperature, out of direct sunlight, until the remaining stem pieces are dry and loose. Pull off stems and any roots or soil, but don't wash the tubers.
Store the tubers in a perforated plastic bag filled with peat moss or vermiculite in a cool, dark place. The ideal storage temperature range is 40°F to 50°F, much cooler than most basements. An insulated but unheated attic or three-season porch may be cool enough. A spare refrigerator can be an ideal place to store tender bulbs and other bulb-like plant parts, such as tubers. Check the tubers occasionally for rot, softening or withering, and discard bad tubers immediately.
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Geraniums and Fuschia’s:
Geraniums can be held in a semi-dormant condition when they are kept at a temperature from 45°F. to 50°F. Before killing frost occurs, pot up the plants in planter boxes, or suitable containers, and use a well-drained soil. Plastic, clay, or wooden containers can be used. Potting soil may be peat-lite mixes or equal parts garden soil, peat and vermiculite. After transplanting, prune back plants to about 4 inches. You may need to prune later in winter as they grow leggy and have few flowers. Geraniums should be placed in a cool (40°-50° degrees) room with plenty of light. Sometimes our natural light during the winter is lacking, at which you may need to supplement with a grow light. The geraniums will defoliate due to poor light and cool temperatures. Clean up dry or yellow leaves to avoid mildew or botrytis. Geraniums flower sparsely during November through February, remove these to help maintain dormancy and larger blooms in spring. During late winter, plants start to grow faster. Prune them severely to encourage new growth. Keep the soil dry to slow down the growth of the plants and also avoid root and crown rot. But don't let soil dry excessively. A light watering once a month should be enough. As spring approaches, move it to a warmer spot and begin increasing water and fertilize once a month.
Pictures of Pruning Geraniums(Before and After) Pictures of Pruning Fuschias(Before and After)
Spring Care:
In early April you need to repot your geranium to provide it with fresh soil. Prune back the foliage and the roots about half and add fresh potting soil to your container. Water regularly with mild fertilization. Once the weather cooperates you can move the plant outdoors.
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@2005
Hooper's Garden Center