Growing vegetables in the intermountain west can be quite challenging. In the Flathead Valley the obstacles including short growing season averaging 90 frost free days (June 1 to Sept. 1) depending where you’re located. Longer seasons along Flathead Lake - shorter seasons in foothill areas around the valley. In addition our nighttime average temperatures will be around 46 to 48 degrees Fahrenheit slowing plant growth even further.
Another major challenge is high pH in our soils and water. Millions of years ago when this valley was formed, glaciers left behind deposits of calcium carbonate, which is quite alkaline, permeating our soils and our water table.
Unfortunately, for the plant lovers in this valley alkalinity causes deficiencies of nutrients in virtually all landscape, bedding, and vegetable plants. These deficiencies manifest themselves in stunted yellowing growth, poor flower or fruit production and in excessive conditions plant death.
Most annuals and vegetables require a pH of 6.0 to 6.5 (acidic) to thrive and absorb nutrients. With a pH of 7.0 being neutral soil and water pH are usually between 7.6 and 8.8, way above most plant abilities to extract nutrients. What makes this situation even worse is the fact that every time you water a plant you are depositing more calcium carbonate thereby increasing pH even more. The bottom line is you must treat your soil as being sterile unless you find a way to lower the pH and "unlock" these nutrients. There is only one effective way of doing this, and fortunately, it is rather simple. An application of organic slow disintegrating sulfur once a year at an application rate of 1 to 2 pounds per 100 square feet will help correct the pH problem. Not only do you lower pH but you are also supplying one of the six macronutrients (sulfur) not found in this valley. Once you unlock you soil not only will your garden grow better, your vegetables will taste better.
There are three basic ways to grow a garden in the Flathead - in ground, raised beds and container
gardening. If your plot of ground is not conducive to in-ground gardening there is still hope
by doing a raised garden or large containers. We favor large containers for several reasons.
Most vegetables are very practical to do in containers with the exception of corn and potatoes. By the way, potatoes need a lower pH (5.0 to 5.8) to grow well and be scab free.
One other important factor is the addition of composted organic matter to in-ground and raised bed gardens. Premixed soils should have adequate amounts of organic matter to start with for containers. Composted organic matter is the intermediary for nutrient absorption in plants much like the bacterium in your digestive system. Organic matter produces humic acid, which aids in controlling alkalinity. Composted organic matter aids also in water retention, keeping soils loose and allowing oxygen to move through the soil
You will notice I stressed composted organic rather than raw organic matter. Raw manure, grass clippings, raw wood products; such as sawdust and pine needles, can cause anything from high soluble salts, E. coli bacteria, to carbon starvation from wood products. To be safe, always compost organics first until they have stabilized to avoid problems and get maximum benefit from organic matter.
When it comes to choices in fertilizers, today there are many choices. Remember a once a year sulfur application is mandatory whether you choose to apply in fall or spring does not matter, but do it the same time every year. For those of you that wish to use all organic base compounds, Fox Farm - Peace of Mind offers an excellent selection for in-ground and raised bed applications.
For container nutrient levels we have a custom fertilizer blend that will provide the exact nutrient levels required for growing in containers. When using someone else’s fertilizer be careful of excessive nitrogen levels, as this will cause rotting of fruit and excessive leaf or stem growth.
Phosphorous is needed in relatively small quantities for root development.
Potassium is required in greater amounts because this element is responsible for fruit initiation and development.
Calcium while important to stem growth is incorporated into good all around fertilizers, plus the calcium carbonates in our water provide soluble calcium.
Sulfur, besides acidification, is needed for protein building and nutrient absorption.
Magnesium is the other element we are deficient in causing low yields and yellowing of older leaves. Magnesium is a key element in photosynthesis and chlorophyll. Magnesium can be supplemented with Epsom salts (Magnesium Sulfate) which is considered an organic form. Apply at a rate of 1 pound to 100 square feet once a month, or a teaspoon to a gallon by watering can is usually sufficient.
Micronutrients such as boron, copper, iron, manganese, molybdenum and zinc are also called trace elements and are usually found in most complete fertilizers. These elements are all involved in enzyme production.
Nutrient balance, too much or too little of a nutrient, affects the absorption of other nutrients causing changes in the plants growth. The key to successful gardening is, understanding the necessity of correct pH. The water you irrigate with changes the chemical (nutrient) structure of your soil every time you irrigate.
A note on seed selection, pick seeds that will mature within our seasonal window. A tomato with a hundred-day maturity date will not produce here. Another common misconception is that hybrid seeds are genetically altered seeds. Hybrids are usually two inbred varieties that have been cross bred, not altered in a culture dish, so go ahead and use hybrid seeds as they usually have better characteristics than inbreeds.
Understanding the parameters I have outlined, you can successfully garden in the Flathead.
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